TMB day 10 : Le Moulin to Chamonix

Our goal for the final day was Lac Blanc. Resting on the upper ridges of Grand Balcones du Sud (the southern balconies), the lake is TMB’s THE photography spot. However, the Lac Blanc route was a more challenging variant than the standard run-of-the-mill route as it included a set of ladders and steep sections. The standard route did not include Lac Blanc, but we wanted the photo. So, instead, we went to the endpoint using a cable car and hiked backwards towards Lac Blanc. And we were not disappointed.

But the photo only shows half of the picture. We were slightly disappointed, but the blame is on global warming. The European heat wave had evaporated the lake to such a low point that the lake had split into 2 ponds. The water level had dipped below a submerged rock wall that now served as a barrier between the two bodies of water. Nevertheless, we did get the photo. 

We again met the Kolhapur – Belgium couple from a few days prior, and we shared a meal at the Refuge resting just above the lake. Based on their description of the hike from the Le Moulin direction, our path, hiking up from the endpoint, seemed much more difficult, apart from the ladders. And, looking at their photos of the ladder, in hindsight, we might have taken the wrong decision and should have come up through our initially planned route. 

We returned the way we had come. Covering a 3600ft elevation change in 5 miles, we ended our final day of Tour du Mont Blanc at la Flegere. As we covered the last few yards, we heard a familiar “hey guys” from Tímea.  At a cafe in Flegere, Tímea, we celebrated the end of our journey with walnut-covered brownies. By this point, she was exhausted. While most of the hikers take transportation or cable cars a few miles here or there, she had never taken a single ride. She was a champ and a purist. But in the last few days, she caught a stomach bug, which drained her. So, she finally relented to taking a cable car down to Chamonix with us. 

At the bottom of the cable car, we met the three 70 years-young ladies who we had first met in Refugio Elena on day 6. We encountered them a couple of times later during the tour when my mother once asked their reason for completing the TMB. They answered because they were stupid and crazy. They were definitely not stupid, maybe a bit crazy, but every bit of inspiration for us.

Even though we were done with all the hiking, the tour did not feel like it was over. It felt incomplete. Maybe, it was because we were missing a photo at the TMB famed arch. Tímea felt the same way and managed to muster enough energy to accompany us to the arch.

Now it felt finished, and to celebrate, we all (the three Britishers, my family, Tímea, and another Scottish hiker we had met along the way) decided to meet Harry for a fancy French dinner in Chamonix. We first needed to freshen up, so we beelined for our hotel in the neighboring town of Les Houches. 

As we were about to enter our room, an extremely lean person exited his room in a quarter-zip sweater and underwear. He had kindly come to request us to keep our voices down that night. It turns out he was going to run the entire TMB (what we had completed in 10 days) in under two days. He was starting at 2 a.m. that night and so needed some peace and quiet. This professor in the Norweigan School of Economics had already run half of the tour a few days ago but was caught in the same storm we were hit with at Alpage de Bovine on day 8. He was just built differently.

Under the watchful gaze of Mont Blanc, we celebrated our accomplishment with our hikers-in-arms at the posh La Potiniere, located in the heart of Chamonix, for French cuisine. Unfortunately, Tímea could not make it due to her illness. 

Looking at the menu, I was bewildered. I had no clue what to get. For a while, I pondered over trying my first Escargot – snails. Tim, who had experience in the culinary industry, saw my hesitation and encouraged me to try it. When I decided against it and went for a good ol’ Texan burger, he offered one from his plate. It took me a minute to remove the meat from the shell and another to put it in my mouth. It ended up being a chewy version of mushrooms. The garlic pesto sauce had smothered any raw flavor snails have, if they have any. I liked it.

Why did the snail paint a giant S on its car?

Because when it speeds by someone, they might say: “look at that S-car-go!”

• Joke courtesy of Tim

Each person finds meaning in an aspect of the tour. For some, it might be the views, the food, the hike, the miles covered, or the stillness in the most remote areas. Mine was the people. It began with a simple bonjour (French for hello) here, or grazie and prego (Italian for thank you and you’re welcome) there. It evolved into exchanging greetings to every hiker or local we met. Even little children out on day hikes with their parents would come up to say hello. It created a wholesome warmth in the TMB community. Interacting with hikers from all walks of life, seeing them triumph over struggles, and being along with them during a noteworthy moment of their lives was the focal point of my tour. Although the tour ended, it is the start of my journey to explore nature’s wonders. 

As I write this, the 2022 UTMB festival is in full swing. This trail training event comprises various races ranging from 20 km (12.42 mi) to a 290 km (180 mi) monstrosity. The flagship race, ultra tour mont blanc, follows a very similar route that we took over the previous 9 days. 

To follow the races, go to :   http://live.utmb.world/
For a live video feed : https://youtu.be/3I3LBAt8RPw