TMB Day 1 : Les Houches to du Truc

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Day 1 :

After strapping over 20 lbs on our backs, our attempt at the Tour du Mont Blanc (TMB) began with a 1600 ft descent from Bellevue, a ski spot near the town of Les Houches in France. The tour led us through Col de Voza, the hamlet of Bionnassay, and into the village of Le Champel. This path crisscrossed the first of many pastures with herds of cattle and sheep. In alpine fashion, the livestock wore a heavy bell for farmers to quickly locate them. While the livestock munched their lunch nonchalantly, we marched along and into the alpine forests with an empty stomach. We had planned to stop at inns at Col de Voza and Bionnassay for breakfast and lunch, but they were all shuttered. Our only saving grace were Parle-G’s glucose biscuits and trail mix that we had packed for emergency. The chiming cow bells dimmed as we crossed streams and rivers powered by glaciers. These bodies of water were flocked with baby blue and indigo butterflies. Joining us for a part of the way, a french father outfitted in pink shorts, a blue polo shirt, and a straw hat was out on an excursion with his four-year-old son collecting fallen pinecones.

By the time we emerged from the forest, we were starving. Thankfully we found refuge in Refugio de Miage, nestled at the confluence of Torrent de Miage’s headwaters. We gorged down on a ham and cheese baguette with the Plan glacier in the backdrop. Sadly, our day was not over yet. We had to climb Mont Truc to reach our accommodation at Auberge du Truc.

The last climb of 600ft was tough, or so we thought. An ultramarathon runner sped past us with ease. While the TMB is a famed route for hiking, it is also the course for the Ultra TMB, where runners complete the 167 km (~ 100 miles) course in under TWO DAYS! Unbelievable. More impressive is that the fastest time was 19 hours.

Upon reaching Auberge du Truc, we got a chance to rest our aching legs and meet our fellow hikers. Within the 23-person, bunk-bed style dorm room were seven other random individuals who had booked the tour through the same company. All of us stayed in the same dorms throughout the tour, ate together at breakfast and dinners, and by the end, we had become a family. Every night we would introduce ourselves to the reception as “bookatrekking 10,” and the group name stuck.

Although the refugios (mountain huts/dormitories) were cramped at times, they were clean and environmentally conscious. Not a single time did the accommodations use single-use plastic. Our meals were always served on ceramic dishes with metal cutlery. Oh, and the meals were impressive.

On our first night, we were invited to a sumptuous 4-course meal. It began with pumpkin soup to warm our stomachs, followed by cheese-filled scrambled eggs and pasta. We even got to sample the local cheese of Tomme du savoy for the third part. Each area of the alps has its cheese, which they prize and have strict production rules. The inn raised 2 of the three types of cows that produce Reblochon, a cheese local to the part of Savoy. Since it is a universal rule that where there are cows, there are files, we were mobbed by flies. Not only during our stay, but they pestered us throughout the tour. When we thought the meal was over, we were presented with a bowl of Creme Brulee.

That day we had ascended 2200 ft and descended 2400 ft. We tucked in early in preparation for what was to be the most challenging day of the tour.

pc : Prajakta, Chaitanya and Aniket Naravane